USE

 

Time to train up, get strong and have some fun! There are a million different training apps, YouTube videos and workout plans out there, so we’re not going to try and reinvent the wheel here, nor supply you with strict detailed plans, we’ll just point you in the right direction for some workouts and training ideas and give you a few tips to extend the life of your holds. 
 

CARE

Simple: Chalk and brush

Try to remember to always apply some chalk to your fingers before a session, and keep them topped up when needed throughout. This will improve the grip between you and the hold by removing excess moisture from your finger tips (moisture = slippy). This will increase the life of your hold by maintaining the fine grained texture for longer. We've designed our parts to be skin friendly, with a unique texture unlike other climbing holds or finger boards - using chalk will help keep it like that.

Just as important: Brush off the holds after use and even in-between sets (gives you something to do while resting). Brushing your holds with a soft climbing brush will clear out flaked skin, oils and excess chalk from the surface of the hold and keep things as they should be.

 

 

WARNING (see lawyers, we’re responsible!)

Before undertaking any strenuous exercise, strength training or just about anything physical - you should warm up thoroughly beforehand, and avoid all together if you’re injured or overly fatigued.  Under 18’s should be supervised by a qualified coach or climbing instructor. Full crimps are a no go when training. Half and open grip crimps only! 

 

WARMING UP

Wrist, shoulder and elbow mobility movements/rotations are a good idea before a hard session. As is using resistance bands to warm up your shoulders, and potentially even to assist you with your first few sets of hangs and pulls. TIP: you can simply hook a band over the Board (when mounted to a surface) and then step into the band for some assistance.

 

GRIP/FINGER TRAINING & MORE

The three main exercises here are ‘max hangs’, ‘density hangs’ and ‘repeaters’.

(In the case of the Boards, you can either mount the board and hang off it to perform these exercises, or hang weight from them and use them as a pinch/crimp block - the exercises, sets and reps do not really change either way).

 

REPEATERS

The classic fingerboard training technique: 

  • Hang from your desired edge for 8s. 
  • Rest for 5s.
  • Repeat 5 times.
  • Rest for 2-3 mins.
  • Repeat.

(yes, they’re tedious, yes, they work).

 

MAX HANG

As the name suggests, pick a grip/edge and hold on! 

  • Hang from your desired edge for 10s. 
  • Rest for 2-3 mins (the rest is important!).
  • Repeat 5 times.

To increase the difficulty of the hangs you can:

  • Attach weights to yourself (only adding a few KG at a time).
  • Utilise a smaller edge/hold.

DENSITY HANG

  • Hang from your desired edge for 35s.
  • Rest for 3 mins.
  • Repeat 2 times.

To increase the difficulty of the hangs you can:

  • Attach weights to yourself (only adding a few KG at a time).
  • Increase the reps.
  • Utilise a smaller edge/hold.

 

STRENGTH TRAINING

(Recommended only for the use with the Jug on the Boards and gripping the Barrels)

This is your classic bodyweight/calisthenics training, we’re not going to list all the splits and rep ranges you can do - as that’s very much up to you (12-16 reps x 3 sets is always a good option when strength training), but here are some exercises to consider:

  • Pull ups. (obviously).
  • Chin ups.
  • Front Lever (and variations leading up to being able to front lever).
  • One arm pull ups (and variations leading up to being able to achieve a one arm pull).

(Consider utilising resistance bands to assist with these exercises).

 

PREPARING FOR A CLIMB

Many climbers will take a small fingerboard to the crag with them to warm up their fingers before trying a route - our Boards can do this too of course! Be it through the use of an individual board suspended from a tree/bolt, two boards mounted on a sheet of wood (and again suspended from a tree/the rock face) or simply by attaching some weight/band to the board and doing a few hangs/flexes to warp up those tendons. 

We hope you enjoy using our products - and remember: warm up, chalk up - brush off!